Beyond Sled Dogs and Gold
Somewhere between myths and hard facts you find Nome, poised also between yesterday and tomorrow. Drawing on his background in anthropology and an equal passion for history, Michael Engelhard surveys the seam that links two neighboring continents through the lens of one pivotal city. The region’s legacy of millennia shines on pages enriched by this writer’s recollections-from mammoths to Cold War monuments, from a spa turned orphanage to cyclist miners and shaman hoards. Meet the explorers and adventurers, reindeer herders and hustlers, the dancers, drummers, dreamers, warriors, walrus-tusk carvers, and whalers, clergy, foragers, and photographers who shaped a place of conflicting visions as thoroughly as it shaped them.
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Contents
Author’s Note: Deep-Time Horizons 11
Introduction: Blustery Hub for Two Continents 23
I. The Place
City of Dreams 45
Where Giants Once
Walked 65
Treasure Island 81
Nomehenge 99
Northland Shangri-las 123
II. Personalities
The Lemming Lady 133
Shadow Catchers in the Land of the Midnight Sun 143
An Insider Artist 157
Glacier Priest 163
III. Art & Industry
The Deer Is Like Money 173
Qiviut Fever 197
Heartbeat of the North 205
Dressed to Survive 215
Working the Ocean’s White Gold 227
Got Stink? 237
The Fabulous Kidney
Stone 245
IV. Journeys
Into Cold Air 257
Dateline Adventurers 271
Wheels to Fortune 279
Image Notes 289
Suggested Readings 299
Acknowledgments 305
Mengenai Pengarang
Trained as an anthropologist with a degree from the University of Alaska Fairbanks, Michael Engelhard worked for twenty-five years as a wilderness guide and outdoor instructor in Alaska and on the Colorado Plateau. The editor of four anthologies and author of ‘Ice Bear, ‘ a cultural history of the polar bear, he has won three Alaska Press Club Awards, and a Rasmuson Individual Artist Award. Recent books include the National Outdoor Book Award-winning memoir ‘Arctic Traverse’ as well as ‘What the River Knows: Essays from the Heart of Alaska, ‘ and the Grand Canyon essay collection ‘No Walk in the Park.’ His writing has also appeared in publications like Outside, Sierra, Backpacker, National Parks, Audubon, Utne Reader, and Times Literary Supplement, with more than a hundred articles in Alaska magazine.
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